Annual Report of the Minnesota State Horticultural Society 20: 331-334 (1892)
HUBBARD SQUASH.
E. M. CHANDLER, MINNEAPOLIS.
(A Talk.)

This is something that I am a little new in yet. I have only been at it about three years. If you want an outline of my plan, perhaps I can give you a little information on it. We prepare our ground along in May, and mark it off in squares eight feet each way. We manure our squash in the hill, putting about a fork full in each hill, and put our seed in about the same time that we plant corn, say about the 25th of May or the 1st of June.

Dr. Frisselle: How deep down in the hill do you put that manure?

Mr. Chandler: Well, I put it in three or four inches deep and cover it with three or four inches of soil and put in the squash seeds in the hill, and when they come up thin them out to one and sometimes two. The hills are eight feet apart. We have one or two vines for each hill. We cultivate them during the summer and keep the weeds down as well as we can. Our soil is a very sandy soil, that is hardly fit for anything else.

A Member: How about the bugs?

Mr. Chandler: We generally put out so many squash that we don't fear the bugs. We have about twenty acres this year, and we had twenty-five acres last year: We have enough for ourselves and the bugs, too. The only thing we fear is the grub worms. They hurt us some last year, but not much. After you get the third leaf on the squash, they get beyond harm from the bugs. The idea is, to get a rapid growth on the squash, and thus they soon get out of the way of the squash bug. It is a good idea to have squash seed kept over for two or three years—it would be better to keep it three years if you could. We have some saved ahead, but not enough yet. We think it is better to keep it over a couple of years. You get a stronger growth of vine from the old seed. We gather our squash before the frost when we can. We put them into our house and handle them very carefully in doing so. We separate the vine from the squash by cutting it off with a knife, and leave about an inch of the stem on the squash. This is a very important point. We pack them in the house without throwing around or bruising them in any way. Wherever you crack a squash shell, that squash rots, and particularly when it is put down cellar.


It is interesting to note that Chandler reported stronger growth from old seeds. Perhaps he meant that the third leaf was produced sooner, which would agree with other reports of hastened maturity of plants grown from old seed. Stronger growth does not necessarily imply longer vines.

It would be interesting to experiment with the Hubbard squash, particularly noting any variation in vigor in plants raised from fresh seed, and recording how many old seeds fail to germinate. It is not unreasonable to suppose that seeds with greater inherent vigor would be more likely to survive long storage.