Amaryllis ... and How to Grow Them
Peggie Schulz (1954)

Hardgrove Shock Treatment

Maude Hardgrove of Wewoka, Oklahoma, employs a unique method to produce blossoms several times a year on her amaryllis. Though her system seems to break all the ironclad rules of culture, Mrs. Hardgrove enjoys more flowers from her amaryllis over longer periods of time than any other hobbyist I know. The amaryllis she flowers so well are her own Hardgrove hybrids which have a high percentage of A. belladonna [L non auct.]. She says she has never tried her technique on Dutch hybrids. If you have a bulb that you know has had the best of care and it still does not produce flowers, you might try the "Hardgrove Shock Treatment."

As soon as the flower stalk begins to wilt it is cut off; also cut off all the leaves except the very small center ones. Lift the amaryllis from the pot and cut back the roots to about two inches. Then repot in fresh soil and set the plant in a shady place until the leaves begin to lengthen. At this point, you can put it back with your other amaryllis, if you wish, and it will very likely show another bloom stalk.

Mrs. Hardgrove warns, however, that you cannot expect any better results from a starved bulb than from a starved animal and to shock a bulb that has not had good care might kill it. Her amaryllis are grown in temperatures of 75 to 80 degrees F. during the day and at 65 to 70 degrees at night. She has such a reputation for making amaryllis bloom that one corner of her greenhouse is devoted to the "hospital care" for the ailing amaryllis of her friends.