The Characters are;
It hath a coated, bulbous Root; the Flower is shaped like a Lily, consisting of six Leaves, and is covered with a membranaceous Sheath like the Narcissus; the Fruit succeeds the Flower in the same Form of the Narcissus; is oblong or roundish, and divided into three Cells, which are filled with roundish Seeds.
The Species are;
1. Lilio-Narcissus; Indicus, saturato colore purpurascens. Mor. Hist. The Lily-daffodil, of a deep purple-colour.
2. Lilio-Narcissus; Indicus, flore albo, exterius rubente. Tourn. Indian Lily-daffodil, with a white Flower, which is reddish on the Outside. [Atamasco]
3. Lilio-Narcissus; polyanthos, flore incarnato, fundo ex luteo albescente. Sloan. Cat. Many-flowered Lily-daffodil, with a Carnation Flower, having a whitish-yellow Bottom, commonly called in the West Indies, Red Lily. [Amaryllis Belladonna Linn.]
4. Lilio-Narcissus; Japonicus, rutilo flore. Mor. Hist. The Japan Lily-daffodil, commonly called the Guernsey Lily. [Nerine sarniensis]
5. Lilio-Narcissus; folio latissimo, floribus niveis inodoris. Tourn. Lily-daffodil with a very broad Leaf, and snowy Flowers without Scent.
6. Lilio-Narcissus; Indicus, Narcissus liliflorus aureas, striis argenteis pictus, floribus amplis cernuis gemellis, caule magno, cepa fistuloso. Pluk. Phy. Indian Lily-daffodil with ample gold-coloured Flowers spotted with silver, and a large hollow Stalk. [Amaryllis striata Lamarck]
7. Lilio-Narcissus; Indicus, flore incarnato, lineis albis striato odorato. Indian Lily-daffodil, with a Carnation-flower striped with white Lines, and of a sweet Scent; commonly called The Bella donna Lily. [Cape Belladonna]
8. Lilio-Narcissus; luteus autumnalis minor, Tourn. The lesser yellow Autumnal Lily-daffodil, commonly called The Autumnal Narcissus.
When these Roots come over they should be planted in Pots filled with fresh light sandy Earth, mixed with a little very rotten Dung, and placed in a warm Situation, observing now and then to refresh the Earth with Water; but by no means let them have too much Wet, which would rot their Roots, especially before they come up: About the Middle of August, such of the Roots as are strong enough to flower, will begin to shew the Bud of their Flower-stem (which is commonly of a red Colour); therefore you should remove these Pots into a Situation where they may have the full Benefit of the Sun, and may be sheltered from strong Winds; but by no means plant them too near a Wall, nor under Glasses, which would draw them up weak, and render them less beautiful: At this Season they should be gently refreshed with Water, if the Weather be warm and dry; but if it should prove very wet, they should be screened from it. When the Flowers begin to open, the Pots should be removed under Shelter, to prevent the Flowers from being injured by too much Wet; but they must not be kept too close, nor placed in a Situation too warm, which would occasion their Colour to be less lively, and hasten their Decay. The Flowers of this Plant will continue in Beauty (if rightly managed) a full Month, and though they have no Scent, yet for the Richness of their Color, they are justly esteemed in the first Rank of the Flowery Race. After the flowers are decayed, the green Leaves will begin to shoot forth in Length; and if sheltered from severe Cold, will continue growing all the Winter; but they must have as much free Air as possible in mild Weather, and be covered only in great Rains or Frosts; for which Purpose a common Hot-bed Frame is the properest Shelter for them; under which if they are placed, the Glasses may be taken off constantly every Day in dry open Weather, which will encourage the Leaves to grow strong and broad; whereas when they are placed in a Green-house, or not exposed to the open Air, they will grow long and slender, and have a pale, weak Aspect, whereby the Roots will become weak, so that it seldom happens that they produce Flowers under such Management. These Roots should be transplanted every other Year toward the latter End of June, or the Beginning of July, and planted into fresh Earth, but they should not be oftener removed, for that would retard their Flowering. The Off-sets should also be taken off, and planted into separate Pots, which in three Years time will produce Flowers; so that after Persons are once stocked with these Roots, they may increase them, so as to have a Supply of blowing Roots, without being at the Trouble or Expence of sending to Guernsey every Year for fresh Roots; and the Roots preserved here, will flower stronger than those which are usually brought from thence; for the Inhabitants of those Islands are not very curious in cultivating these Roots: their usual Method is to plant them at a great Distance in a Bed of common Earth, where they let them remain for many Years, in which time they produce such a Number of Off-sets, that many times one single Cluster has contained above a hundred Roots; by which means those which grow on the Inside, are so much compressed by the outer Roots, that they are perfectly flatted, and from the Number of Roots they are all rendered weak, and so unfit to produce such large Stems of Flowers, as those which have grown single and are of a spherical Figure. But when a Person has got a large Number of these Roots, it will be troublesome to preserve them in Pots; therefore you should prepare a Bed of the following Earth, in some well-sheltered Part of the Garden, viz. Take a Third-part of fresh Virgin-earth from a Pasture-ground, which is light, then put near an equal Part of Sea-sand, to which you should add rotten Dung, and sifted Lime-rubbish, of each an equal Quantity: with this Earth (when well mixed and incorporated) you should make your Bed about a Foot thick, raising it four or five Inches above the Surface of the Ground, if the Situation be dry; but if the Ground be wet, you should raise it eight or nine Inches higher. In this Bed, about the Beginning of July, (as was before directed) you should plant the Roots about six Inches asunder each way; and in the Winter, when the Frost begins, you should either cover the Bed with a Frame, or arch it over, and cover it with Mats and Straw, to prevent their Leaves from being pinched with Cold; but in the Summer the Covering may be entirely removed, and the Bed kept constantly clear from Weeds, observing to stir the Surface of the Earth now-and-then; and every Year when the Leaves are decayed, you should sift a little fresh Earth over the Beds, to encourage the Roots. In this Bed the Roots may remain until they are strong enough to produce Flowers, when they may be taken up, and planted into Pots, as was before directed, or suffered to remain in the same Bed to flower.
The Roots of these Plants do not flower again the succeeding Year (as in many other Sorts of Bulbs); but if their Bulbs contain two Buds in their Center, as is often the Case, they very often flower twice within the Compass of three Years, after which the same individual Root does not flower again, but only the Off-sets from it.
These Plants do not increase very fast in our Climate, for which Reason a curious Person should be furnished with several Roots of each Kind from Abroad, in order to have some Flowers every Year, for they seldom blow two Years together (as was before observed) nor does the same Root Flower more than twice, which is commonly within three Years; so that where there are not six or eight Roots of each Sort, it can't be expected to have Flowers very often, notwithstanding no Art or Care be wanting in their Culture: for in their native Countries they are not constant Flowerers.
To this Article must be added;
1. Lilio-Narcissus; Jacobaeus latifolius Indicus, rubro flore. Mor. Hist. Broad-leaved Indian Lily-Daffodil, with a red Flower. [Sprekelia]
2. Lilio-Narcissus; Indicus maximus sphaericus, floribus plurimis rubris liliaceis. Mor. Hist. Greatest Indian Lily-Daffodil, with many lily-shaped spherical flowers.
3. Lilio-Narcissus; Indicus pumilus polyanthos. Mor. Hist. Dwarf Indian Lily-Daffodil, with many Flowers. [Pumilus]
4. Lilio-Narcissus; Zeylanicus latifolius, flore niveo externe linea purpurea striato. Mor. Hist. Broad-leaved Lily-Daffodil of Ceylon, with a snow-white Flower, striped with purple Lines on the Out-side. [Crinum zeylanicum/scabrum]
5. Lilio-Narcissus; Indicus pumilus monanthos albus. Mor. Hist. Dwarf Indian Lily-Daffodil, with one white Flower.
6. Lilio-Narcissus; luteus vernus. Inst R.H. Yellow spring Lily-Daffodil. [Lapiedra?]
7. Lilio-Narcissus; luteus autumnalis major. Inst R.H. Greater yellow autumnal Lily-Daffodil, commonly called Autumnal Narcissus. [Sternbergia lutea]
8. Lilio-Narcissus; luteus multiplex autumnalis. Inst R.H. Autumnal yellow Lily-Daffodil, with double Flowers.
9. Lilio-Narcissus; Boeticus luteus minor odoratissimus Inst R.H. Lesser yellow Lily-Daffodil of Boetica, with very sweet Flowers.
They will thrive in almost any Soil or Situation, provided it be not too wet; for too great Moisture in Winter, lying long near their Roots, will rot them, because at that Season they are in their greatest Vigour; for after the Flowers are past, their green Leaves continue growing most Part of the Winter; and as the Warmth comes on in the Spring, their Leaves decay.
The Sort which flowers in the Spring, should not be transplanted so soon as the others; for the Leaves of this do not decay till toward the middle of July, so that these Roots should be transplanted in August. This requires an East or South-East Border; for if they are planted too much in the Shade, they will not flower so well, as when they have a more open or warm Situation. The Roots of all these Sorts should remain untransplanted two or three Years; for if they are removed every Year, they will not flower near so strong, nor produce so great Increase, as when they remain undisturbed: but then the Surface of the Borders in which they are planted, should be cleaned from Weeds, and gently stirred, when the green Leaves are decayed, and a little fresh Earth spread over the Borders, which will greatly encourage the Roots, and cause them to flower strong.